mammut

Yin & Yang in Chamonix

White Out

Sitting lying here exhausted after the sixth day skiing in a row, belly bursting like a fattened goose from carbo-overloading, I’ve cast my mind back to the last six weeks roller-coaster ride that is a winter in the Alps. What a ride it has been, both unparalleled brilliance and a real head scratcher as well. At times feeling lucky like the butter wouldn’t melt millionaire, who doesn’t care about money and is winning at living day by day, dodging taxes and avoiding the man, being selfish and focused, healthy and happy- life is all good for the explorer within. And yet from nowhere the niggle sets in- everyone gets it- growing from an inanimate acorn to an awful oak within days and suddenly I’m left feeling like the millionaire who lost all his money (and, as a downward kick, actually has no money) and despairingly questions the meaning of his existence (cumulonimbus rolls in overhead). Skiing some snow and clambering up some rocks- when my life is structured for only that to benefit, it only makes me happy when it’s good, as it’s good when it’s good, but when it’s bad, it is bad and more pointless and unsatisfying than ever- is this the cost of the green grass life? The highs are so high that the lows become lower? Tearing hair out at first world problems and never ending baskets of real life lemons. The balance has to be right. Fast forward and I’m back to care free living. Lifestyle defining moments that blow distracting cobwebs away. Happy. I can’t and won’t change it for anything. That’s my life.

Thankfully storms come in cycles.

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Cirrus

Perfect skiing- it is such a momentary activity, time slowing absorbing segments of joy that you can be awakened from any moment by hitting anything but the softest snow- but it has to be perfect.  I’ve never had too much to say about it unless it is a certain line that warrants explaining. Its smooth its soft swoosh swoosh you had to be there. Writing about an average day would land this story a front seat on a speed boat towards average island where you can enjoy some average reading with an average cocktail. Climbing, due to its complexity and variety, is easier to describe in detail and I guess can make for more interesting reading for those who care- pitches here, difficulties there, watching your partner experience some character building test piece while you stand idly passing rope between numb fingers imagining you have an internal furnace roaring away- you have time to think and remember. Although I am inclined to agree that the best Alpinists are the ones with the worst memories.

This hasn’t been the winter for climbing so far, as always, things will come in and ambitions may get the better of us, but as it stands many big faces are dry, temperatures too mild for reliable ice falls, and snow has plastered rocks and gullies so that snorkles are a more common sight than axes.

The January storms were welcomed with open arms after a slow start to the year, and made up for it by dumping huge amounts of snow. Creaky lifts struggled to open, but when they did the skiing was pretty much as good as it gets anywhere in the world.

 

Mike and I managed to retain a 50% success rate by regulating our climbing goals from easy to ambitious. A good tactic to keep interest and motivation up. We had a few good days climbing Deferlante (WI4), Mini-mini Couloir (WI4/M4), Jumeau de Droite (WI5) and dry tooling at the Zoo. Our attempts at The Highlander (VII, 7) and Marite on the Tour Ronde (M6) tipped the balance back.


 

Blizzards

The storms that have passed through have been enormous, but with fluctuating freezing levels left fairly tight windows for good access to skiing. What was one day bottomless tree skiing turned to Cat 4 wet slab territory the next. The upside of hardly working is that you are in the position to capitalise on these windows, and this provided some of the best skiing I’ve had here in 3 winters. Regular training in the gym and looking for more work during this time is the sensible thing to do too, but after a few cycles the hunger for change and distance and light builds and builds until thankfully opportunities come to justify the training, the temp work, the reading, the waiting.

 


 

Bluebird

Now I feel spoiled. The brat that gets more presents every year no matter how he behaves. I’ve taken some of the best photos I’ve ever managed, and skied some iconic lines in perfect conditions. Resort skiing has been phenomenal with everyone claiming to have had the best day ever- until it is beaten by another. Le Brevent provided me with the best resort skiing on a Wednesday morning I’ve ever had, exploring new long and steep faces. This was followed by a monster tour up to Pain du Sucre on Mont Tondu. 2000m vertical, 11km from the car in Les Contamines. The snow was perfect for skinning and even more perfect to ski down bathed in warm sunlight. It’s a stunning area with a lot to offer and is great to get away from the crowds without worrying about glacier travel. It is worth noting that all these experiences aren’t just turn up and go. I’ve practiced skiing in all conditions over years so that I’m ready now. A fair bit of planning goes into it first, and (for example) whilst Mike was leading across an exposed section he got a bad feeling, dug a hasty pit, found some ice, discussed it with us, then bootpacked one at a time across the slope. These decisions don’t make the reports all the time. It’s a sign of an aware group of skiers. Constantly assessing. This is how and why we get rewarded with great conditions, because the other 50% of the time we turn round.

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Emelina charging down Brevent.

Expect more high and low tales from wild adventures over the next 6 weeks, things are looking to ramp up. You’ve got to enjoy the ride along the way!


 

Voice the niggle-  “You’re so lucky to live your life!” Aren’t we all? If you’re reading this blog then you’ve had similar options, and made different choices.

How did I get so lucky? I booked a one way flight to Chamonix for £40  and at the time used the remainder of my £750 overdraft to pay for my first months rent, then worked to save up for a lift pass etc etc- it’s not impossible. My last pay check was £511 and I’m still alive and well and living your dream. Make it happen if it is what you want!